Somewhere between the first gathering for introductions and the bittersweet final dinner, I am always surprised to find myself refreshed by new friendships. Not everyone resonates with every other traveler in one of our tour groups. But everyone resonates with someone on all of our tours. And in an unlikely twist, we also (and often) make deep connections with the local artists, teachers, makers, hoteliers, guides, farmers and restauranteurs with whom we spend time.

This trip in Estonia was especially so.

Our group of 21 travelers, along with me and our lead guide, Sydney, was chock full of world travelers, professors, linguists, former military personnel, teachers, parents, financiers, legal advisors, farmers and gardeners along with a cumulative century in knitting, weaving, spinning, designing and sewing. Conversations at meals and during bus rides ranged far and wide. I cannot tell you the number of times I heard myself silently comment “Wow!” at snippets of overheard conversation.

So the next several days were not only a rich source of learning about textiles. They were also a rich time of learning about each other. Lots of questions, sighs of empathy and belly laughs. Plus helping hands, looking out for each other and the knitters handshake. (Yes, it’s a secret. Only knitters are allowed to know.)

But let me get on with describing our adventures…

After a day immersed in Tallinn’s handcrafting scene, we packed up our bags and left the cozy Hotel Schlossle. Tallinn is in the northwest of Estonia, on the Gulf of Finland. We were headed south, to the seaside town of Parnu, on the Gulf of Riga. I am writing from my phone rather than my laptop, so don’t have the luxury of inserting a map. I invite you to search via your own device.

On our way, we made two stops.

First, at the studio and publishing office of Anu Pink. Anu is a knitting legend, both at home and around the world. She has been researching, collecting, preserving and explaining traditional Estonian textiles for years. She is the author of multiple books (full list on goodreads.com here). Three of her publications, now available in English, are veritable encyclopedias of Estonian knitting. Seriously, I almost bought them all and probably should have while at her studio. Only their humongous, collective weight kept me from doing so.

Anu spoke with us about her work, then pulled out a collection of the most exquisite knitted textiles I’ve ever seen. (And I’ve been into the knitted archives in the Yorkshire Dales, Lake District, Highland Folk Museum and many private collections overseas!)

In the world of Estonian knitting, Anu Pink is akin to Eric Clapton or Joni Mitchell — a true aficionado. I really felt honored to have spent time in her presence.

We stopped in to visit one of the first mini mills in Estonia. (For you non-knitters, that’s a small scale wool processing workshop with equipment that can scour, card, comb, spin and wind yarn. Often started by a farm in order to create finished yarn from their own sheep or alpacas and those of the surrounding farms.) You’ve seen me post about these before, so I’ll just post a couple pics and the observation that Liina Lehis does very beautiful work, especially with a blend of her own Wensleydale sheep and the fur of Samoyed, Tibetan Mastiff and Newfoundland dogs. Yes! Yarn made partially from dog hair!

We also were forced to stop and eat lunch enroute to Parnu.

A two hour bus ride was upon us then. You can guess how many of us fell into a contented sleep. I did here conversation for about, oh… twelve minutes or so. Then complete silence. By the way, this midafternoon bus ride on a cloudy day was so dark that knitters had to use task lights or headlamps to see what they were doing. Before falling asleep, that is.

Much later, we arrived at our turn-of-the-century, Arts &Crafts era mansion-turned-hotel. Swanky digs. Beautifully restored. And if you know me, you know I’m a sucker for anything created in this period. I was in heaven.

Ladies and gentlemen, I present you with Hotel Ammende.

I wish I could say that I got more — and better — pictures of hotel. Alas, we spent hardly any time there. But I will share these last buts from our final evening. A collection of musicians held their holiday dinner in one of the hotel’s dining rooms, then gathered to play in its libby. We were cordially invited to attend.

And once again, dear friends, my time is up. I must go to bed in order to rise refreshed, with enough time to explore a bit more of Barcelona before leaving for the village of El Masnou. It takes a long time to post each photo. I have to scroll back through the 1,329 shots I took while visiting Sagrada Familia. I promise to only share half of those with you. But first, the remainder of my time in Estonia…

Cheers! Or should I say terviseks? Yes! In Estonian, then! TERVISEKS!

I am too tired to edit… please forgive typos. Must. Sleep. Must!