Estonia to Spain, Part 1. The Big Jump

Evening in Tallinn’s main square. Welcome to Estonia!

Greetings, friends and family. Yes, it’s me again. I am traveling to far away places once more! It feels like a long, long time has passed since I was last overseas. But on reflection, I realize it’s only been six months. Spring tours ended with my return home from Ireland in June. A busy summer, heel/ankle surgery and New Mexico’s beautiful autumn have come and gone since then And here I am, passport and backpack in hand once more. The winter’s destinations: Estonia and Spain.

I’ve begun to think of international flights— specifically the long one across the Atlantic — as “The Big Jump”. Much like a venture into space, you have to suit up both mentally and physically for it. Much of it is also spent in an odd, otherworldly state which might be something akin to suspended animation (but conscious). I have to plan carefully regarding what in my carryon luggage can go above, in the overhead bins, and what needs to be with me at my seat. Headphones to block out those travelers watching videos with the sound on? Check. Comfortable clothes to endure a range of temperatures from 80 degrees (those moments between boarding a plane and liftoff, when there seems to be no air circulating) to 30 degrees (approximate temperature experienced while standing on the tarmac at Frankfurt Airport, having taken a shuttle out to the airplane in order to wait as about 70 people slowly walk up the stairs and board the plane)? Check. Multiple entertainment options with you because you can’t sleep sitting up? Check. Water bottle empty for security screening but at the ready for filling on the way to the gate? Check. Once on the plane, it’s suspended animation for the next 24 hours or so.

Staring out at the llano before leaving Santa Fe. Just a half hour delay before taking off. This won’t affect my connecting flight, right???? Give up any sense of control, all ye who enter these halls of transportation — I mean airports…

Santa Fe to Denver? Easy peasy. It’s just 50 minutes from take off to landing, with views of well known towns, mountain ranges and lansdcape formations to be watched from above. Barely time to get out that knitting project before you find you’ve landed.

But then the big one: Denver to Frankfurt.

I was pleasantly surprised to find myself on a semi-full Lufthansa flight. Within nanoseconds of the “Boarding completed.” announcement, I’d identified an empty row of seats and dropped my carryon to claim it as mine. I sat down with a sigh. Two whole seats to myself for an overnight flight? Heaven! Usually I watch movie after movie to pass the time. But as I was able to turn sideways, put my feet up and have light without disturbing any neighbors, I chose an alternate activity. My headphones set to classical selections, I spent the next several hours merrily knitting to Mozart, Bach and Bruckner.

It wasn’t long before I became aware of why no one had chosen to sit in my row. Adjacent to the stairs down to the bathrooms, my spot was bathed in the glare of bright lights.

Whoops.

Great for knitting. Not so great for later, when trying to sleep.

After seeing me pull a hat down over my eyes, then a scarf over my entire head, a kind stewardess offered me a sleeping mask — about two hours before we landed. Sigh. Well, I did get some good knitting in. At some point during the flight, I wondered whether folks on their way to the bathrooms noticed that lady in the last row, knitting with a goofy smile on her face. It’s because I have two whole seats to myself on an international flight!!! People, this is luxury! That big smile lasted through hour six. Then I attempted sleep. Then I resigned myself to knitting, tried to read and finally, finally gave in to watching a movie. By the time I got to Frankfurt Airport, I was in need of a good stretch and some lunch. Lucky me! I happened upon some Chunky Monkey ice cream.

Yes, a sleep deprived person is just loopy enough to believe her serving of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream at Frankfurt Airport is worth recording.

The flight from Frankfurt to Tallinn was only about three hours. It was packed to the gills though, so I did my part by checking my rolling carryon and tried to take up as little room as possible. Not everyone was so polite. How do people not hear the announcement about two pieces of carryon on luggage? Or the part about storing smaller items under your seat? It took longer to get everyone on and settled for that three hour flight as it had to load up for the big cross-Atlantic jump.

BUT! Once we landed in Tallinn, I was restored from suspended animation! Suddenly I could breathe fresh air again! There was only me in the taxi to my hotel! I was greeted with a glass of hot, spiced wine, shown to my room and alerted as to the location of breakfast! Oh the joy of seeing one’s bed after hours in the halls (and hulls) of transportation! Welcome to Hotel Schlössle.

Spiced wine, sweets and lingonberries on arrival. The plate was full mere seconds before the photo was taken. I was a bit hungry.
I don’t know you yet, bed, but I love you already.
Courtyard Christmas lights outside my window.

I wandered to the old city’s central square to find food. Here’s what I saw.

Old Tallinn, lit up for Christmas.
Beer. And later, food.
Lots of folks out for shopping and glogg in the town’s main square.
Shops which need visiting!

And as this post is getting long, here are some photos from my morning out wandering in the old part of the city today. (After a 12 hour long festival of sleep and fantastic, restorative breakfast at our hotel.)

A daytime view of the hotel’s courtyard (my room is bottom right, pink building).
Wandering about in the old part of the city. You can see part of the medieval city wall there to the right of the tower.
The view from atop that city wall.
So much linen.
Stone paving, cobblestone and tiled roofs everywhere.
Miscellaneous, intriguing alleyways.
Where the old city meets modern Tallinn.
Finding lunch among the locals . (The further you get from the historic old town, the fewer tourists you see and the more Estonian you hear.) Know what I’ve observed so far? Travelers here wear minimal coats and carry big backpacks/bags. Locals wear big coats (REALLY big) and carry minimal bags.
Traditional borscht. Yum.
Mid town skaters.
Words that rival Icelandic ones in length.
Amazing street-side flower shops.
Specific instructions as to where you can get your fix.
A sad moment.

And last but certainly not least…

I may have purchased some linen already.

Observations regarding Estonia, further adventures and a journey into the region’s handcrafting traditions are all ahead. But so far, I’d say The Big Jump was well worth it. I’m looking forward to learning about this place, then sharing with you.

A deep night sky and bright buildings in the oldest part of Tallinn.

6 comments

  1. WOW – great to see your thoughts from travelling again. It has been a long time!!

    Last nite’s episode of FBI International (one of my favorite shows) took place in Taillin. I don’t know much about Estonia, but it looks like a beautiful place with a lot of interesting history and sites.

    Have fun and be safe.

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  2. Great first installment and the pics, as usual are awesome! Really give us the feeling of being there! A little different than what you’re used to when traveling and yet very similar. Hmmmm, I like it!

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  3. What a delight to be armchair traveling with you on a new adventure! Love your writing and the pics and captions are delightful.

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  4. I love LOVE that you are back on the road and in the sky and sharing what you are seeing and doing!! Such a treat!!💕🐑

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  5. I’ve never been to Europe, never had to deal with such a long flight. If I ever do go, I’m going straight to Boston where I will recover for a few days before going on over the ocean.
    But what a beautiful city you have landed in! Old Taillin is stunning!

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